Androgens, the menstrual cycle, PCOS and spironolactone

Hormonal acne / Triggers and treatments

Hormonal acne: from triggers to treatment

Hormonal acne makes more sense once you know what sets it off. This page walks from the trigger to the treatment a doctor would usually try for it.

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Hormonal acne in one paragraph

Hormonal acne is acne in which hormones do most of the pushing. Androgens, the hormones that rise in puberty in every sex, make the oil glands bigger and busier. Extra oil and dead skin plug the pores, bacteria grow in the plug, and inflammation turns it into a spot. That is why hormonal breakouts so often follow a rhythm: the days before a period, a new contraceptive, pregnancy or the years around menopause.

The triggers behind a hormonal flare

  • Your cycle. Many women notice deeper spots on the chin and jaw in the week before a period.
  • Starting or stopping the pill. Some pills calm acne, and coming off them can bring breakouts back.
  • Pregnancy and menopause. The NHS lists both as times when acne can flare.
  • PCOS. Polycystic ovary syndrome raises androgens, and MedlinePlus lists acne among its signs, next to irregular periods and extra hair growth.
  • Stress. Stress does not cause acne by itself, but it can make acne you already have worse.

Each of these is covered in more depth in our sister guide on what causes hormonal acne, including how to tell a cycle pattern from a one-off flare.

Matching the treatment to the trigger

Treatment starts on the skin for almost everyone: a retinoid such as adapalene at night and benzoyl peroxide in the morning. Give that pair about three months before you judge it, because acne needs that long to turn over.

When breakouts clearly follow the cycle, a doctor may add a hormonal option. For women, the combined contraceptive pill and spironolactone both lower the effect of androgens on the oil glands. For severe acne that leaves scars, isotretinoin is the strongest choice and needs close follow-up. The step-by-step version, with what to try first and what comes next, is on how to treat hormonal acne.

How hormonal acne usually looks

Hormonal breakouts tend to sit on the lower face: the chin, the jawline and the sides of the mouth, sometimes running down onto the neck. The spots are often deeper and more tender than ordinary whiteheads, and they come back in the same places. In adults, the American Academy of Dermatology notes that this pattern is most common in women, including women who had clear skin as teenagers.

A simple way to check the pattern is to note the date of each new flare for two or three months. If the flares cluster in the week before your period, hormones are very likely part of the picture.

What to expect in the first three months

Skin treatments take time because acne forms weeks before you can see it. Many people notice dryness or a little peeling in the first weeks of a retinoid, and spots may look slightly worse before they improve. Using a pea-sized amount, a plain moisturizer and sunscreen keeps that manageable.

Hormonal treatments are slower still. A doctor will usually review progress after a few months rather than after a few weeks, so it helps to keep using the plan even when one bad week makes it feel like nothing is working.

Two common myths

Hormonal acne is not caused by dirty skin. The NHS is clear that acne is not caused by poor hygiene, and scrubbing harder only irritates the skin. It is also not something you simply wait out: adult hormonal acne can last for years without treatment, and treating it early lowers the chance of marks and scars.

When to see a doctor first

Book an appointment rather than experimenting if your periods are irregular, you notice new hair on your face or body, or spots are deep, painful or leaving marks. Those signs can point to PCOS or to acne that needs prescription treatment, and the sooner it is treated, the less chance it scars.

Back to the hormonal acne guide

Sources

  1. NHS. Acne.
  2. MedlinePlus. Acne.
  3. MedlinePlus. Polycystic ovary syndrome.
  4. American Academy of Dermatology. Hormonal therapy for acne.

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This page is general information, not a diagnosis.